A friend of mine completed a cross stitch project recently and asked me to show her how to stretch and frame it. Her project is called "The Beauty of Spring" from the Stoney Creek Collection.
Before I could start on showing her how to stretch her completed cross stitch; she had to make up her mind as to how she wanted her picture to look when it was framed. She had decided that she wanted the picture to be double matted with a custom made frame. We went to a local framing shop where we tired out different mat colors and frame options. In the frame shop we decided on the size of the mat opening since there would be some unstitched fabric visible around her design. A two inch wide double mat would go around the picture. The outside mat dimensions determines the measurement for the inside of the frame and glass size.
My friend made her choices and ordered the mats, frame and glass which she picked up at a later date.
Before leaving the shop I purchased some acid free foam core for the stretcher board. I prefer to cut my own stretcher board at home. The piece of foam that I bought was slightly bigger than the measurement of the inside of the frame. I then cut my stretcher board about one inch larger than the mat opening for the picture as you see in the photos. Once the picture is stretched I fit it into the opening of the foam core. I trim off any excess foam core after the mats are centered and placed over the picture.
However before we could start on the stretching my friend had to prepare her cross stitch project by having it laundered. I instructed her to wash the piece by hand in lukewarm water with a mild dishwashing liquid. Swish it gently and soak it for about fifteen minutes. Never wring or pull on the cross stitch piece. Remove the needlework from the soapy water and gently squeeze before placing it in cold water. Rinse the piece out at least two or three time to remove all the soap. The piece should then be place between the folds of a white bath towel and rolled up, squeezing to remove as much water as possible. Once most of the water is removed place the piece face down on a fresh white towel for pressing. Iron until totally dry using a pressing motion with medium heat. The picture on the right shows the piece before it was laundered and ironed; you can clearly see the fold in the fabric.
Once the piece was cleaned it was ready to be mounted on to the stretcher board. I centered the design on the board and used stainless steel pins on both sides to keep it in place. With all the sides equal I follow the thread lines on the fabric placing pins at quarter inch intervals along the edges of the board. I push the pins in about half way to prevent them from falling out as as I worked my way around.
Once I completed pinning the picture to the stretcher board and I was satisfied that all the lines were even I pushed the pins in completely making sure that there wasn't any that went in at a slant causing them to come through the stretcher board on either the back or front. I prefer not to remove the pins even after taping the fabric to the back of the stretcher board. I was now ready to mitre the fabric in each of the corners. I used acid-free tape to secure the edges of the fabric to the board.
The stretched piece was then fitted into the foam core cut out from which I originally cut the stretcher board. I used acid free tape on the back to secure the two pieces together. Several days later when my friend had picked up her mats, glass and frame from the frame shop I showed her how to frame her picture. I used double sided acid-free tape around the edge of the picture. I then centered the mat over the design area and pressed it into place. I trimmed off any access foam core around the mat. 
The picture was now ready to be fitted into the frame. I first cleaned the side of the glass that was on the inside of the picture with non-ammonia glass cleaner. I use a micro-fibre cloth instead of paper towels which may leave lint or fibres on the glass. With the glass in the frame I placed the mounted needlework into the frame and secured it lightly with my point driver. I turn the picture over and double-check for any hair or dust particles; when I was satisfied that the inside of the glass was spotless 
I firmly secured the piece into the frame. I then applied double-sided tape to the back of the frame and covered it with brown craft paper making sure that it was smooth. I trimmed the excess with a single edged razor blade being careful not to cut into the frame. I attached eyelet screws with wire at the back of the picture. The eyelet screws are placed one third the distance from the top of the frame. I put rubber bumpers on the bottom corners to protect the wall. Once the outside of the glass was cleaned; my friend's picture was ready to hang.
A Little Bit of Extra Info
Never use cardboard or all-purpose masking tapes they have too much acid in them.
Acid free foam core, tapes and other framing supplies can be purchased from your local craft or framing shop or on the web.
I've ordered from both Picture Frames.com and Frames By Mail and have been very satisfied with their products.
I use UV blocking clear glass on all my cross stitch pictures. I prefer to have the glass professionally cut to the right size at a framing shop.
I would be happy to answer any of your questions on Stretching and Framing your completed cross stitch projects. You just need to click on "Send Me Your Comments" on the top right hand corner of this page to e-mail me.
